| Fashion News Maryland |
Clothes off her back
Salli Ward wears the expensive clothes she sells from her basement showroom
December 19, 2007
Salli Ward
Wardrobe consultant/personal shopper
Wonderful Wardrobes, Owings Mills
Salary // $35,500
Age // 61
Years on the job // 17
How she got started // Working as a wardrobe consultant is a second career for Ward, who spent 25 years as an elementary school teacher in
Illinois. While she was still teaching, she began selling the Doncaster brand of clothing as a part-time job. She moved to Maryland in 1996 and
continued working as a sales consultant for the company. "I see my role as helping women find clothes that work for them."
Typical day // A big part of what Ward does is networking and meeting prospective clients for her business. So she attends numerous community
events, all the while wearing the clothes she sells. "I call it dress up, show up and follow up. If I get a compliment, I have a [business] card."
Ward only sells clothing from Doncaster, a direct sales company focused on women's fashion. She runs Wonderful Wardrobes as her own business,
earning commissions and bonuses based on her sales.
Ward's job is to provide advice on what clothes work for a woman's particular figure and to help her clients put together a wardrobe.
She holds trunk sales at her home keyed to each of the four seasons. Ward's basement is set up as an office and boutique to hold the events, which
run about three weeks at a time. During the shows, she takes appointments seven days a week from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. For the two weeks before a
show, she's on the phone booking appointments. The two weeks after a show, she's back on the phone following up on orders. In between shows,
she takes e-mail orders and sends out a fashion newsletter twice a month.
Her clientele // A typical Doncaster blouse costs $150 to $200. "For women who would rather have fewer things and better things, those are my
clients."
The good // Hearing from clients who received compliments on the clothes they purchased. "When I get that feedback, it reminds me why I'm doing
this."
The bad // Dealing with clients' schedule changes. "You think you have a great day of appointments and you're going to have a good day of sales,
then life happens."
Philosophy on the job // "I love helping women feel wonderful about how they look."
A Fashion Classic: The Black Dress
Valerie Steele
Director and Chief Curator, Museum at Fashion Institute of Technology, New York City
Tuesday, December 4, 2007; 11:00 AM
Fashion authority Valerie Steele, author of the new book, "The Black Dress," discussed what arguably could be the most important
item in any woman's wardrobe.
____________________
Valerie Steele: Welcome to the discussion. This is Valerie Steele, director and chief curator of the Museum at FIT. I would be pleased
to answer any questions.
_______________________
Reston, Va.: I'm a firm believer in the value of a little black dress that's appropriate for many occasions, but I'm still unsure what
exactly would be an enduring style. A-line? Sheath? Sleeveless? Short-sleeved? And what fabric? Could you please provide some
guidelines?
Valerie Steele: If anything is an enduring style, it is the little black dress. But there is no one style of dress that exists outside of time.
Fashion is all about change. I think your main question, therefore, should be: What style of dress looks best on me? If you have good
arms, then, by all means, choose sleeveless. A seasonless fabric is most practical -- perhaps light summer-weight wool, or a wool-silk
mix, or even an artificial fiber. Polyester sounds bad, but Alber Elbaz of Lanvin has designed some really gorgeous black dresses in that
material, and they resist wrinkling nicely.
_______________________
New York, N.Y.: I know nothing about fashion but made an effort over the years to visit every museum in New York City. I want the
public to know that you have done an excellent job with your museum. The displays were interesting and the descriptions were not
"over my head," so that I was able to understand, learn and appreciate what it was I was looking at. I left feeling as if I had a much
better understanding of something I had previously given little thought toward. I thank you and your staff, and for a question, do you
consciously realize that your museum is both a learning experience as well as a display for those who wish to just look at clothes?
Valerie Steele: Thank you for your message. I am especially pleased that you like our captions, because we consciously try to advance
knowledge about fashion, rather than just displaying pretty dresses. Of course, we also want people to think "Wow. That's amazing,"
so we try to make each show beautiful AND intelligent.
_______________________
Friendly, Md.: What style of LBD should a size 2 long-legged 5-foot-3-inch high school sophomore wear?
Valerie Steele: A petite, slim person such as yourself can get away with a mini dress, but don't make it too short. Something with
either cap sleeves or long sleeves would be nice. Since the hemline is short keep the neckline high and modest. Avoid anything too
sexy. You can get great ideas from Japanese Vogue.
_______________________
Bethesda, Md.: Do you have any favorite designers who, in your opinion, do black dresses particularly well? Why do you think so?
Valerie Steele: Right now, I'm very enthusiastic about Alber Elbaz of Lanvin. However, his clothes are very expensive. There are also
lots of great choices that cost much less.
_______________________
DYING to WEAR BOOTS: Hello, this is not quite a little black dress question, but somewhat related. I have a pair of brown leather
boots (they have a skinny heel and are skinny toed, come almost to my knee with a CUTE buckle) I am dying to wear them with a dress
to a holiday party. What could I pair with the, that will look like Christmas but with a twist?
Valerie Steele: Oh, I love boots. I think they look terrific with dresses. For a festive holiday style, I'd look for dresses in velvet and
explore unexpected colors like dark blue or deep purple.
_______________________
Washington, D.C.: Do you have any thoughts on the best ways to accessorize a black dress?
Valerie Steele: Black is a great frame for color that pops. How about a red handbag? But if so, you probably don't want to look too
matchy-matchy with red shoes also. (Although if you skipped the handbag, red shoes look terrific with a black dress. Gold jewelry is
also fabulous. There's a reason jewelers line their boxes in black velvet.
_______________________
Arlington, Va.: Just curious. What's your reaction to Project Runway this season?
Valerie Steele: I'm ashamed to say, I haven't been watching it this season. Sorry.
_______________________
Friendly Maryland: Throughout my adult life and various sizes, I have kept a LBD. I tend to keep to traditional styles so that I can
dress it up or down with accessories. If a LBD compliments your figure, you have an emergency outfit no matter the occasion.
Valerie Steele: I totally agree. And it's so easy.
_______________________
Fairfax, Va.: I am so excited to have just yesterday gotten an amazing LBD. I haven't had one in years. It is surprising how good that
can make you feel.
Valerie Steele: I am in exactly the same place. For years, I did black trousers or skirts and only recently rediscovered the black dress.
_______________________
Annapolis, Md.: I am a 62-year-old woman in reasonably good shape and have not been able to find a good quality, classic dress of any
kind, much less the prized little black one for a long time. Reasonably good shape doesn't mean I want to reveal a lot of skin or have
the hem at mid-thigh. I also have curves and so many of the stores seem to cater to women who don't have to have darts in the bodice of
their dresses -- translation, they tend to cater to very young women. Even Nordstrom's, which I use to love, seems to follow this trend. I
love wools and silks, good lines. Any suggestions?
Valerie Steele: Do what the rich do, get it custom-made. Not haute couture, just a nice "little" dressmaker in your neighborhood.
_______________________
Fredericksburg, Va.: What style and/or fabric would you suggest for a plus-size woman? I am balanced overall, but my lack of defined
waist makes finding that right dress even harder. I agree -- having that perfect black dress is indispensable.
Valerie Steele: Sometimes it seems that fashion is only focused on the size 0 woman, but actually many styles are appropriate for plus-
sized women. You want to look for something that glides over your body without clinging in the wrong places. Sometimes a slightly
high waist can be flattering.
Valerie Steele: I was interrupted, so I'll continue my answer... Sometimes plus-size women try too hard to cover up and wear clothes
that are too loose. The right belt can give the illusion of a waist; experiment. Also the right jacket over a dress -- maybe something in a
cocoon shape can be fabulous. And remember to show off the parts of your body that you like -- a nice lowcut neckline can be flattering
or show off your legs.
_______________________
Baltimore, Md.: Good Morning; I have a beautiful daughter and two rapidly maturing daughters. Please evaluate the following
statement, which is based on my experience with them and 49 years as a casual yet interested observer of women's fashion: "80 percent
of women's fashion is wearing the right bra."
Valerie Steele: Wow. I hope it's not 80% or I'm in trouble... Seriously, though, I think the real key is that clothes should fit well. For
some women, a well-fitted bra is an essential step. But everyone can benefit from having a tailor adjust the fit of a dress or jacket so it
fits perfectly.
_______________________
Anonymous: Do you think turquoise will come back in style, as it looks so nice with black?
Valerie Steele: Turquoise can be stunning with black. Both the color and the jewel. The jewel is not so "in" this season, but you can
just ignore that if you want. Moreover,ll the blue greens look chic for clothes.
_______________________
Oakton, Va.: I had an LBD that I loved for the longest time -- long-sleeved, hit just below the knee, square neckline -- and came in at
the waist. Really, the perfect dress for my body type. Have you seen anything similar recently?
Valerie Steele: This style sounds very chic. I wouldn't be surprised if one was out there in the stores, although I can't give you a brand
name off the top of my head. If you like recreational shopping, you can cruise the stores with a friend...
_______________________
Washington, D.C.: Help. What do I wear to my boyfriend's holiday party? It's a small company and the "party" is a dinner at a
restaurant. I want to look festive, but not as if I'm trying too hard.
Valerie Steele: Dinner in a restaurant means you want a nice top. Not too low cut, but not like a nun. Pretty sleeves would be good, but
not so loose that they will interfere with eating. And since you'll be sitting & eating, you don't want it to be too tight or uncomfortable.
There is a really nice black silk dress by Anne Klein this season. Something like that would be chic and not fussy. Men (like
boyfriends) really just want you to look pretty and not too sexy.
_______________________
Anonymous: Where does one find the best knock offs of top fashion dresses? I'm looking for a genuine copy of a fake Dior.
Valerie Steele: I don't approve of companies that just rip off other designers' ideas. Why don't you focus on what you like about a
particular Dior (apart from the label) and look for dresses that have that sense of style.
_______________________
West Coast: When wearing a black dress, should one think of Queen Victoria, or Rita Hayworth?
Valerie Steele: I wouldn't think of Queen Victoria herself as a fashion icon, but Victoriana in fashion can be very pretty. If you can
carry off a Rita Hayworth style black sheath and you have the occasion to wear it, go for it.
_______________________
New York, N.Y.: Hi. I just bought a black dress last week and I'm wondering whether or not to keep it. I'm slightly overweight, and I
normally don't buy loose-fitting dresses because I think they make me look bigger. But I really liked this one. The neckline is jeweled
and somewhat low-cut. It's also knee-length and has 3/4 sleeves. The loose fit hides the bulges, and I'm hoping the fact that I show my
neck and legs means it's still flattering. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Valerie Steele: It sounds really nice. If it is not too loose, it shouldn't make you look bigger. And remember you won't just be standing
in it, you'll be moving and sitting, gesturing with your hands. The jeweled neckline sounds particularly attractive and very fashionable
this season.
_______________________
Boston, Mass.: Invite to office holiday part says "dressy casual attire." What on earth does that mean???
Valerie Steele: Hmmm. That is cryptic. I'd guess they mean not formal (i.e. not long dresses or evening wear), but also not a sloppy, I
mean "casual," day at the office, and also not a "business attire" stiff suit
.
I'd say: Pretty, festive, but NOT too sexy. It IS the office, after all.
_______________________
Anonymous: What do you think of a black maternity dress? Sound too Gothic?
Valerie Steele: A little bit gothic, but personally i love that. Try to keep the baby in colorful clothes, though.
_______________________
Washington, D.C. Have you seen any black winter coats this season that you like?
Valerie Steele: I haven't been looking this year, because I already have about 8 black winter coats. I've been wearing a black wool coat
by Yeohlee a lot. She does great coats.
_______________________
Washington, D.C.: Just got a Phillip Lim "dress" that is really a tuxedo jacket. How should I wear it? Tights and heels?
Valerie Steele: That sounds about right, but experiment with different heels so you can get the effect you want.
_______________________
Chevy Chase, Md.: I've got a wardrobe full of black dresses -- some long, some short cocktail length. I still they think they're all
wearable, but does there come a time when you should put a dress, even a black one, to rest? How do you know when?
Valerie Steele: When it's worn out or doesn't fit anymore or you don't love it anymore. Otherwise, what's the harm in keeping it?
_______________________
Anonymous: Assuming that the dress from GILDA, with Rita Hayworth inside it, is the most famous black dress of all time, what are
your other all-time favorite black dresses in film?
Valerie Steele: My book also includes Audrey Hepburn's LBD, of course, and Ava Gardner in a GREAT black dress from "The Killers."
_______________________
New York, N.Y.: I am going to Carnegie Hall for a concert and I want to buy a nice dress. I was thinking about a classic like a little
black dress. Where should I look? I don't want anything boring but I do want something I can wear for a long time.
Valerie Steele: I totally agree that a LBD should NOT be boring. For a concert at Carnegie Hall, you'll be sitting, so think what looks
pretty like that -- a nice neckline, good sleeves, maybe a skirt that spreads out nicely. NOT a tight narrow skirt. There are many many
places to look. Where, in the past, have you found clothes that you really loved?
_______________________
Cleveland, Ohio: What are your favorite, timeless accessories to change up the look of a little black dress? Please be specific in terms
of colors, shapes, day vs. night, etc. I'm thinking purses/cluthes, jewelry, hose/tights, shoes/boots. Thanks.
Valerie Steele: This is a HUGE question.... For evening, a small satin or jeweled purse, for day -- well, it depends, today I'm carrying a
big red handbag by Balenciaga that looks great with a black dress. It all really depends on YOU -- what is your style sensibility?
_______________________
Washington, D.C.: Is there some male equivalent to the Little Black Dress? You know, something essential that no man should be
without.
Valerie Steele: A "classic" business suit -- and a tuxedo. You can go around the world with those.
_______________________
Alexandria, Va.: Is black still considered the "most slimming" and elegant color by couture designers? What's wrong with spicing
things up a bit with say a red or winter white formal dress?
Valerie Steele: NOTHING is wrong with spicing things up with color. A few years ago, I wrote another book called "The Red Dress."
_______________________
Washington, D.C.: I am a tall, slim woman with great legs. At age 60, how short dare I wear my little black dress?
Valerie Steele: Marlene Dietrich had great legs in her late 70s.... I agree that you should show yours off. But probably 3 inches above
the knee is as high as you should go. The skirt will slide up further when you sit down.
_______________________
Pennsylvania: Anonymous asked: Where does one find the best knockoffs of top fashion dresses? I'm looking for a genuine copy of a
fake Dior. I also don't like knockoffs because it undermines the intent of the original designer. If price is an issue, try looking for
vintage Dior at high-end consignment stores or online. Classic pieces never go out of style.
Valerie Steele: I totally agree. Vintage dresses can be fabulous. If it's too old to wear or the wrong size, you can have it copied. But
make sure that you and your dressmaker get comparable fabric and fastenings like nice buttons. (Easier said than done, I know.)
_______________________
Shopping online: I really like Bluefly for midrange designers at good prices. They have a whole LBD section. This is where I just got
my perfect LBD for the holidays and beyond.
Valerie Steele: That is a great suggestion.
_______________________
New York, N.Y.: I find things all over, my wardrobe is not really consistent in terms of brand. Are there any go-to stores you can
recommend for a good black dress? I like your idea of a full skirt. Now I can pretty much picture the exact dress I would like.
Valerie Steele: I'll pass on some advice I just got -- try Bluefly on the web. In fact, you could just google "black dress".....
_______________________
Washington, D.C.: I have sort of a strange fashion question: I have a cast on my leg -do I wear the nice dress and say so what to the cast,
or do I go for nice dress pants that cover it up somewhat?
Valerie Steele: Wouldn't it be hard to get trousers over your cast? If it were me, I'd go for the dress. A cast is no crime -- you don't need
to hide it.
_______________________
Centreville, Va.: And for those of us who look terrible in black, what is the recommendation?
Valerie Steele: Color. White. Neutrals like taupe. Prints. Whatever makes you happy.
_______________________
Visitor from Guyville: OK. The Little Black Dress is a must-have for gals. What the equivalent for guys? A blazer? What?
Valerie Steele: A good blazer is important, whether worn with dress trousers or jeans. A good suit is also important.
_______________________
Washington, D.C.: Ok, I'm an idiot, but I bought my first LBD over the summer (I'm 25). It's jersey knit and from Banana Republic
Petites. I have a pretty big bust, and so it was hard to find a dress that wasn't too scandalous for church. It's lovely. It's a v-neck
sleeveless but there's a band of cloth that covers up the cleavage. I wore it to a wedding with a little cream-colored cropped cardigan
(also from BR Petites). Ok, for the summer wedding, I wore a peep-toe black wedge. Here's why I'm an idiot: what do I wear on my legs
if I wear this dress in the winter? Nude stockings? Black? Shoes?
Valerie Steele: Stockings are a big fashion theme this winter so you have lots of choices -- nude, or some variant like taupe, black,
either sheer black or opaque, or a black stocking with a pattern, such as lace. You have a lot of choices in shoe styles, so don't feel that
the magazines are pressuring you to wear one style, if you prefer another. I'm in love with ballerina flats but if you are petite, you
might want a heel. It is important to wear the dress when you go shoe shopping, so you can see how they go together. Have fun.
_______________________
Washington, D.C.: J.Crew has a lot of great LBDs. They aren't cheap, but they aren't Dior prices either. Don't miss their sale page.
Last year I got a fabulous LBD for under $50 -- halter, deep neckine, made of beautiful tuxedo wool.
Valerie Steele: The other readers will be glad to hear this. Thanks for sharing the tip.
_______________________
Arlington, Va.: Valerie, I currently only have a knee-length cocktail dress. Should I have a longer dress or gown for formal evening
events?
Valerie Steele: It is seldom really necessary to wear a long dress anymore. But you need to focus on your own social life. What do
women wear at the parties you go to? I suspect, a mixture of long and short. Which means, suit yourself.
_______________________
Silver Spring, Md.: Without a corporate or big city life style I don't find too many occasions for a black dress. Are you sure that black
PANTS aren't the new black dress?
Valerie Steele: Black pants are awesome. If you go to Paris, check out a little store called Bob's on Rue Cambon. All pants, all styles. I
buy a pair or two of black pants every time I'm in Paris.
_______________________
Washington, D.C.: You made some remarks on Fashion TV at a recent Alexander McQueen show outside Paris that seemed to indicate
that things that are OK there just wouldn't go in the USA. Is that true and what did you mean? Thanks.
Valerie Steele: Paris shows tend to be much more theatrical and outrageous than in America. That McQueen show was on the theme
of his ancestor who was executed at Salem for being a witch.
_______________________
Bay Harbor Islands, Fla.: I love my black dresses. However, I attend a lot of affairs and so often everyone else is wearing a black dress.
Any hints on how to make your LBD (little black dress) memorable?
Valerie Steele: If everyone is in a LBD, you might want to think of striking accessories, including shoes, jewels, and/or just great hair
& make-up.
_______________________
Washington, D.C.: What is the best way for a plus size woman (24w) to get around the little black dress? Plus-size women have lots of
office and holiday parties to go to as well, but it is more difficult for us to find, pretty, feminine, cutesy clothes to wear for our parties.
Valerie Steele: I think a search on the web would be a good place to start. There is a world of information out there. I mean, here....
_______________________
washingtonpost.com: Thanks for joining the discussion, everyone, for such good questions on the subject of a fashion favorite.
‘Green Fashion’ Shopping Advice: Read the Tags, Bring a Dictionary
Libraries
Life News (Pop Culture) Keywords
GREEN FASHION, FASHION TRENDS, SHOPPING, HOLIDAY SHOPPING, SHOPPING ADVICE, TEXTILES, GREEN FABRICS
Contact Information
Available for logged-in reporters only
Description
Shopping for “green fashion” can challenge even an expert in textiles and clothing, as University of Maryland American studies
professor Jo Paoletti is discovering this holiday season. She’s accepted an unusual shopping mission for her recently-married
daughter: find a stylish, environmentally-friendly, dressy outfit suitable for holiday parties.
Image Gallery
"The Web or a dictionary helps shopping for 'green fashion," says UMD's Jo Paoletti
Newswise — Shopping for “green fashion” can challenge even an expert in textiles and clothing, as University of Maryland American
studies professor Jo Paoletti is discovering this holiday season. She’s accepted an unusual shopping mission for her recently-married
daughter: find a stylish, environmentally-friendly, dressy outfit suitable for holiday parties.
“I’ve started reading clothing tags the same way I read food labels,” says Paoletti, who has studied fashion for more than 25 years.
“Reading a garment label is not so simple anymore. You almost need to bring a dictionary or an Internet connection because there are
all sorts of new, unfamiliar names and fibers on the market designed to appeal to environmentally-conscious shoppers. Eventually, we’
ll have to learn about them the way we’ve learned about Trans Fats.”
Paoletti has offered to buy the new clothes because her daughter’s t-shirts, jeans and hoodies won’t cut it for upcoming holiday events.
She also accepted her daughter’s “green” requirement as an experiment in sustainable style.
“She composts her kitchen trash, uses a push mower and buys local produce,” Paoletti says. “Her like-minded husband is a newly-
minted government attorney. They had a pared-down wedding and as green a reception as we could manage. She's not about to head to
the mall to get a trendy ‘seasonal’ outfit.”
Part of the challenge is to find clothes made from renewable resources rather than petroleum-based synthetics, Paoletti says. Some
manufacturers are offering an array of new fibers made from things like corn, soybeans and bamboo, and marketing them as part of a
more sustainable lifestyle.
Paoletti’s daughter also requested recycled, reused or repurposed clothing and items that can have multiple uses. Also, the clothes had
to be comfortable and stylish.
“I’ve searched the Internet and catalogs, looked in thrift shops and even gone to sporting goods stores in search of bamboo,” Paoletti
says. “My daughter will be ready for her holiday parties, but it’s definitely not easy shopping green.”
Paoletti predicts this kind of shopping will become more common in the future as a result of climate change. Some of these new fabrics
will become more widespread, and older, more traditional fibers may regain some lost popularity.
Climate change concerns could also affect the frequency of buying new clothes and the size of wardrobes. We might also see fewer
fashion cycles. “In effect, that’s what happened this year,” Paoletti says. “With a warm fall, winter fashions didn’t sell at a brisk pace,
and retailers are trying to move them right now.”
To keep warm in the winter, some old trends also may regain popularity. For example, Paoletti says a hundred years ago, people
mainly added under-garments for warmth in winter. “Women wore the same dresses all year-round, but their underwear got warmer or
cooler depending on the seasons,” she adds. “This required a smaller wardrobe and simplified laundering. I’m not saying petticoats are
coming back, but climate change may force us to rethink how we dress.
Salli Ward wears the expensive clothes she sells from her basement showroom
December 19, 2007
Salli Ward
Wardrobe consultant/personal shopper
Wonderful Wardrobes, Owings Mills
Salary // $35,500
Age // 61
Years on the job // 17
How she got started // Working as a wardrobe consultant is a second career for Ward, who spent 25 years as an elementary school teacher in
Illinois. While she was still teaching, she began selling the Doncaster brand of clothing as a part-time job. She moved to Maryland in 1996 and
continued working as a sales consultant for the company. "I see my role as helping women find clothes that work for them."
Typical day // A big part of what Ward does is networking and meeting prospective clients for her business. So she attends numerous community
events, all the while wearing the clothes she sells. "I call it dress up, show up and follow up. If I get a compliment, I have a [business] card."
Ward only sells clothing from Doncaster, a direct sales company focused on women's fashion. She runs Wonderful Wardrobes as her own business,
earning commissions and bonuses based on her sales.
Ward's job is to provide advice on what clothes work for a woman's particular figure and to help her clients put together a wardrobe.
She holds trunk sales at her home keyed to each of the four seasons. Ward's basement is set up as an office and boutique to hold the events, which
run about three weeks at a time. During the shows, she takes appointments seven days a week from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. For the two weeks before a
show, she's on the phone booking appointments. The two weeks after a show, she's back on the phone following up on orders. In between shows,
she takes e-mail orders and sends out a fashion newsletter twice a month.
Her clientele // A typical Doncaster blouse costs $150 to $200. "For women who would rather have fewer things and better things, those are my
clients."
The good // Hearing from clients who received compliments on the clothes they purchased. "When I get that feedback, it reminds me why I'm doing
this."
The bad // Dealing with clients' schedule changes. "You think you have a great day of appointments and you're going to have a good day of sales,
then life happens."
Philosophy on the job // "I love helping women feel wonderful about how they look."
A Fashion Classic: The Black Dress
Valerie Steele
Director and Chief Curator, Museum at Fashion Institute of Technology, New York City
Tuesday, December 4, 2007; 11:00 AM
Fashion authority Valerie Steele, author of the new book, "The Black Dress," discussed what arguably could be the most important
item in any woman's wardrobe.
____________________
Valerie Steele: Welcome to the discussion. This is Valerie Steele, director and chief curator of the Museum at FIT. I would be pleased
to answer any questions.
_______________________
Reston, Va.: I'm a firm believer in the value of a little black dress that's appropriate for many occasions, but I'm still unsure what
exactly would be an enduring style. A-line? Sheath? Sleeveless? Short-sleeved? And what fabric? Could you please provide some
guidelines?
Valerie Steele: If anything is an enduring style, it is the little black dress. But there is no one style of dress that exists outside of time.
Fashion is all about change. I think your main question, therefore, should be: What style of dress looks best on me? If you have good
arms, then, by all means, choose sleeveless. A seasonless fabric is most practical -- perhaps light summer-weight wool, or a wool-silk
mix, or even an artificial fiber. Polyester sounds bad, but Alber Elbaz of Lanvin has designed some really gorgeous black dresses in that
material, and they resist wrinkling nicely.
_______________________
New York, N.Y.: I know nothing about fashion but made an effort over the years to visit every museum in New York City. I want the
public to know that you have done an excellent job with your museum. The displays were interesting and the descriptions were not
"over my head," so that I was able to understand, learn and appreciate what it was I was looking at. I left feeling as if I had a much
better understanding of something I had previously given little thought toward. I thank you and your staff, and for a question, do you
consciously realize that your museum is both a learning experience as well as a display for those who wish to just look at clothes?
Valerie Steele: Thank you for your message. I am especially pleased that you like our captions, because we consciously try to advance
knowledge about fashion, rather than just displaying pretty dresses. Of course, we also want people to think "Wow. That's amazing,"
so we try to make each show beautiful AND intelligent.
_______________________
Friendly, Md.: What style of LBD should a size 2 long-legged 5-foot-3-inch high school sophomore wear?
Valerie Steele: A petite, slim person such as yourself can get away with a mini dress, but don't make it too short. Something with
either cap sleeves or long sleeves would be nice. Since the hemline is short keep the neckline high and modest. Avoid anything too
sexy. You can get great ideas from Japanese Vogue.
_______________________
Bethesda, Md.: Do you have any favorite designers who, in your opinion, do black dresses particularly well? Why do you think so?
Valerie Steele: Right now, I'm very enthusiastic about Alber Elbaz of Lanvin. However, his clothes are very expensive. There are also
lots of great choices that cost much less.
_______________________
DYING to WEAR BOOTS: Hello, this is not quite a little black dress question, but somewhat related. I have a pair of brown leather
boots (they have a skinny heel and are skinny toed, come almost to my knee with a CUTE buckle) I am dying to wear them with a dress
to a holiday party. What could I pair with the, that will look like Christmas but with a twist?
Valerie Steele: Oh, I love boots. I think they look terrific with dresses. For a festive holiday style, I'd look for dresses in velvet and
explore unexpected colors like dark blue or deep purple.
_______________________
Washington, D.C.: Do you have any thoughts on the best ways to accessorize a black dress?
Valerie Steele: Black is a great frame for color that pops. How about a red handbag? But if so, you probably don't want to look too
matchy-matchy with red shoes also. (Although if you skipped the handbag, red shoes look terrific with a black dress. Gold jewelry is
also fabulous. There's a reason jewelers line their boxes in black velvet.
_______________________
Arlington, Va.: Just curious. What's your reaction to Project Runway this season?
Valerie Steele: I'm ashamed to say, I haven't been watching it this season. Sorry.
_______________________
Friendly Maryland: Throughout my adult life and various sizes, I have kept a LBD. I tend to keep to traditional styles so that I can
dress it up or down with accessories. If a LBD compliments your figure, you have an emergency outfit no matter the occasion.
Valerie Steele: I totally agree. And it's so easy.
_______________________
Fairfax, Va.: I am so excited to have just yesterday gotten an amazing LBD. I haven't had one in years. It is surprising how good that
can make you feel.
Valerie Steele: I am in exactly the same place. For years, I did black trousers or skirts and only recently rediscovered the black dress.
_______________________
Annapolis, Md.: I am a 62-year-old woman in reasonably good shape and have not been able to find a good quality, classic dress of any
kind, much less the prized little black one for a long time. Reasonably good shape doesn't mean I want to reveal a lot of skin or have
the hem at mid-thigh. I also have curves and so many of the stores seem to cater to women who don't have to have darts in the bodice of
their dresses -- translation, they tend to cater to very young women. Even Nordstrom's, which I use to love, seems to follow this trend. I
love wools and silks, good lines. Any suggestions?
Valerie Steele: Do what the rich do, get it custom-made. Not haute couture, just a nice "little" dressmaker in your neighborhood.
_______________________
Fredericksburg, Va.: What style and/or fabric would you suggest for a plus-size woman? I am balanced overall, but my lack of defined
waist makes finding that right dress even harder. I agree -- having that perfect black dress is indispensable.
Valerie Steele: Sometimes it seems that fashion is only focused on the size 0 woman, but actually many styles are appropriate for plus-
sized women. You want to look for something that glides over your body without clinging in the wrong places. Sometimes a slightly
high waist can be flattering.
Valerie Steele: I was interrupted, so I'll continue my answer... Sometimes plus-size women try too hard to cover up and wear clothes
that are too loose. The right belt can give the illusion of a waist; experiment. Also the right jacket over a dress -- maybe something in a
cocoon shape can be fabulous. And remember to show off the parts of your body that you like -- a nice lowcut neckline can be flattering
or show off your legs.
_______________________
Baltimore, Md.: Good Morning; I have a beautiful daughter and two rapidly maturing daughters. Please evaluate the following
statement, which is based on my experience with them and 49 years as a casual yet interested observer of women's fashion: "80 percent
of women's fashion is wearing the right bra."
Valerie Steele: Wow. I hope it's not 80% or I'm in trouble... Seriously, though, I think the real key is that clothes should fit well. For
some women, a well-fitted bra is an essential step. But everyone can benefit from having a tailor adjust the fit of a dress or jacket so it
fits perfectly.
_______________________
Anonymous: Do you think turquoise will come back in style, as it looks so nice with black?
Valerie Steele: Turquoise can be stunning with black. Both the color and the jewel. The jewel is not so "in" this season, but you can
just ignore that if you want. Moreover,ll the blue greens look chic for clothes.
_______________________
Oakton, Va.: I had an LBD that I loved for the longest time -- long-sleeved, hit just below the knee, square neckline -- and came in at
the waist. Really, the perfect dress for my body type. Have you seen anything similar recently?
Valerie Steele: This style sounds very chic. I wouldn't be surprised if one was out there in the stores, although I can't give you a brand
name off the top of my head. If you like recreational shopping, you can cruise the stores with a friend...
_______________________
Washington, D.C.: Help. What do I wear to my boyfriend's holiday party? It's a small company and the "party" is a dinner at a
restaurant. I want to look festive, but not as if I'm trying too hard.
Valerie Steele: Dinner in a restaurant means you want a nice top. Not too low cut, but not like a nun. Pretty sleeves would be good, but
not so loose that they will interfere with eating. And since you'll be sitting & eating, you don't want it to be too tight or uncomfortable.
There is a really nice black silk dress by Anne Klein this season. Something like that would be chic and not fussy. Men (like
boyfriends) really just want you to look pretty and not too sexy.
_______________________
Anonymous: Where does one find the best knock offs of top fashion dresses? I'm looking for a genuine copy of a fake Dior.
Valerie Steele: I don't approve of companies that just rip off other designers' ideas. Why don't you focus on what you like about a
particular Dior (apart from the label) and look for dresses that have that sense of style.
_______________________
West Coast: When wearing a black dress, should one think of Queen Victoria, or Rita Hayworth?
Valerie Steele: I wouldn't think of Queen Victoria herself as a fashion icon, but Victoriana in fashion can be very pretty. If you can
carry off a Rita Hayworth style black sheath and you have the occasion to wear it, go for it.
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New York, N.Y.: Hi. I just bought a black dress last week and I'm wondering whether or not to keep it. I'm slightly overweight, and I
normally don't buy loose-fitting dresses because I think they make me look bigger. But I really liked this one. The neckline is jeweled
and somewhat low-cut. It's also knee-length and has 3/4 sleeves. The loose fit hides the bulges, and I'm hoping the fact that I show my
neck and legs means it's still flattering. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Valerie Steele: It sounds really nice. If it is not too loose, it shouldn't make you look bigger. And remember you won't just be standing
in it, you'll be moving and sitting, gesturing with your hands. The jeweled neckline sounds particularly attractive and very fashionable
this season.
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Boston, Mass.: Invite to office holiday part says "dressy casual attire." What on earth does that mean???
Valerie Steele: Hmmm. That is cryptic. I'd guess they mean not formal (i.e. not long dresses or evening wear), but also not a sloppy, I
mean "casual," day at the office, and also not a "business attire" stiff suit
.
I'd say: Pretty, festive, but NOT too sexy. It IS the office, after all.
_______________________
Anonymous: What do you think of a black maternity dress? Sound too Gothic?
Valerie Steele: A little bit gothic, but personally i love that. Try to keep the baby in colorful clothes, though.
_______________________
Washington, D.C. Have you seen any black winter coats this season that you like?
Valerie Steele: I haven't been looking this year, because I already have about 8 black winter coats. I've been wearing a black wool coat
by Yeohlee a lot. She does great coats.
_______________________
Washington, D.C.: Just got a Phillip Lim "dress" that is really a tuxedo jacket. How should I wear it? Tights and heels?
Valerie Steele: That sounds about right, but experiment with different heels so you can get the effect you want.
_______________________
Chevy Chase, Md.: I've got a wardrobe full of black dresses -- some long, some short cocktail length. I still they think they're all
wearable, but does there come a time when you should put a dress, even a black one, to rest? How do you know when?
Valerie Steele: When it's worn out or doesn't fit anymore or you don't love it anymore. Otherwise, what's the harm in keeping it?
_______________________
Anonymous: Assuming that the dress from GILDA, with Rita Hayworth inside it, is the most famous black dress of all time, what are
your other all-time favorite black dresses in film?
Valerie Steele: My book also includes Audrey Hepburn's LBD, of course, and Ava Gardner in a GREAT black dress from "The Killers."
_______________________
New York, N.Y.: I am going to Carnegie Hall for a concert and I want to buy a nice dress. I was thinking about a classic like a little
black dress. Where should I look? I don't want anything boring but I do want something I can wear for a long time.
Valerie Steele: I totally agree that a LBD should NOT be boring. For a concert at Carnegie Hall, you'll be sitting, so think what looks
pretty like that -- a nice neckline, good sleeves, maybe a skirt that spreads out nicely. NOT a tight narrow skirt. There are many many
places to look. Where, in the past, have you found clothes that you really loved?
_______________________
Cleveland, Ohio: What are your favorite, timeless accessories to change up the look of a little black dress? Please be specific in terms
of colors, shapes, day vs. night, etc. I'm thinking purses/cluthes, jewelry, hose/tights, shoes/boots. Thanks.
Valerie Steele: This is a HUGE question.... For evening, a small satin or jeweled purse, for day -- well, it depends, today I'm carrying a
big red handbag by Balenciaga that looks great with a black dress. It all really depends on YOU -- what is your style sensibility?
_______________________
Washington, D.C.: Is there some male equivalent to the Little Black Dress? You know, something essential that no man should be
without.
Valerie Steele: A "classic" business suit -- and a tuxedo. You can go around the world with those.
_______________________
Alexandria, Va.: Is black still considered the "most slimming" and elegant color by couture designers? What's wrong with spicing
things up a bit with say a red or winter white formal dress?
Valerie Steele: NOTHING is wrong with spicing things up with color. A few years ago, I wrote another book called "The Red Dress."
_______________________
Washington, D.C.: I am a tall, slim woman with great legs. At age 60, how short dare I wear my little black dress?
Valerie Steele: Marlene Dietrich had great legs in her late 70s.... I agree that you should show yours off. But probably 3 inches above
the knee is as high as you should go. The skirt will slide up further when you sit down.
_______________________
Pennsylvania: Anonymous asked: Where does one find the best knockoffs of top fashion dresses? I'm looking for a genuine copy of a
fake Dior. I also don't like knockoffs because it undermines the intent of the original designer. If price is an issue, try looking for
vintage Dior at high-end consignment stores or online. Classic pieces never go out of style.
Valerie Steele: I totally agree. Vintage dresses can be fabulous. If it's too old to wear or the wrong size, you can have it copied. But
make sure that you and your dressmaker get comparable fabric and fastenings like nice buttons. (Easier said than done, I know.)
_______________________
Shopping online: I really like Bluefly for midrange designers at good prices. They have a whole LBD section. This is where I just got
my perfect LBD for the holidays and beyond.
Valerie Steele: That is a great suggestion.
_______________________
New York, N.Y.: I find things all over, my wardrobe is not really consistent in terms of brand. Are there any go-to stores you can
recommend for a good black dress? I like your idea of a full skirt. Now I can pretty much picture the exact dress I would like.
Valerie Steele: I'll pass on some advice I just got -- try Bluefly on the web. In fact, you could just google "black dress".....
_______________________
Washington, D.C.: I have sort of a strange fashion question: I have a cast on my leg -do I wear the nice dress and say so what to the cast,
or do I go for nice dress pants that cover it up somewhat?
Valerie Steele: Wouldn't it be hard to get trousers over your cast? If it were me, I'd go for the dress. A cast is no crime -- you don't need
to hide it.
_______________________
Centreville, Va.: And for those of us who look terrible in black, what is the recommendation?
Valerie Steele: Color. White. Neutrals like taupe. Prints. Whatever makes you happy.
_______________________
Visitor from Guyville: OK. The Little Black Dress is a must-have for gals. What the equivalent for guys? A blazer? What?
Valerie Steele: A good blazer is important, whether worn with dress trousers or jeans. A good suit is also important.
_______________________
Washington, D.C.: Ok, I'm an idiot, but I bought my first LBD over the summer (I'm 25). It's jersey knit and from Banana Republic
Petites. I have a pretty big bust, and so it was hard to find a dress that wasn't too scandalous for church. It's lovely. It's a v-neck
sleeveless but there's a band of cloth that covers up the cleavage. I wore it to a wedding with a little cream-colored cropped cardigan
(also from BR Petites). Ok, for the summer wedding, I wore a peep-toe black wedge. Here's why I'm an idiot: what do I wear on my legs
if I wear this dress in the winter? Nude stockings? Black? Shoes?
Valerie Steele: Stockings are a big fashion theme this winter so you have lots of choices -- nude, or some variant like taupe, black,
either sheer black or opaque, or a black stocking with a pattern, such as lace. You have a lot of choices in shoe styles, so don't feel that
the magazines are pressuring you to wear one style, if you prefer another. I'm in love with ballerina flats but if you are petite, you
might want a heel. It is important to wear the dress when you go shoe shopping, so you can see how they go together. Have fun.
_______________________
Washington, D.C.: J.Crew has a lot of great LBDs. They aren't cheap, but they aren't Dior prices either. Don't miss their sale page.
Last year I got a fabulous LBD for under $50 -- halter, deep neckine, made of beautiful tuxedo wool.
Valerie Steele: The other readers will be glad to hear this. Thanks for sharing the tip.
_______________________
Arlington, Va.: Valerie, I currently only have a knee-length cocktail dress. Should I have a longer dress or gown for formal evening
events?
Valerie Steele: It is seldom really necessary to wear a long dress anymore. But you need to focus on your own social life. What do
women wear at the parties you go to? I suspect, a mixture of long and short. Which means, suit yourself.
_______________________
Silver Spring, Md.: Without a corporate or big city life style I don't find too many occasions for a black dress. Are you sure that black
PANTS aren't the new black dress?
Valerie Steele: Black pants are awesome. If you go to Paris, check out a little store called Bob's on Rue Cambon. All pants, all styles. I
buy a pair or two of black pants every time I'm in Paris.
_______________________
Washington, D.C.: You made some remarks on Fashion TV at a recent Alexander McQueen show outside Paris that seemed to indicate
that things that are OK there just wouldn't go in the USA. Is that true and what did you mean? Thanks.
Valerie Steele: Paris shows tend to be much more theatrical and outrageous than in America. That McQueen show was on the theme
of his ancestor who was executed at Salem for being a witch.
_______________________
Bay Harbor Islands, Fla.: I love my black dresses. However, I attend a lot of affairs and so often everyone else is wearing a black dress.
Any hints on how to make your LBD (little black dress) memorable?
Valerie Steele: If everyone is in a LBD, you might want to think of striking accessories, including shoes, jewels, and/or just great hair
& make-up.
_______________________
Washington, D.C.: What is the best way for a plus size woman (24w) to get around the little black dress? Plus-size women have lots of
office and holiday parties to go to as well, but it is more difficult for us to find, pretty, feminine, cutesy clothes to wear for our parties.
Valerie Steele: I think a search on the web would be a good place to start. There is a world of information out there. I mean, here....
_______________________
washingtonpost.com: Thanks for joining the discussion, everyone, for such good questions on the subject of a fashion favorite.
‘Green Fashion’ Shopping Advice: Read the Tags, Bring a Dictionary
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GREEN FASHION, FASHION TRENDS, SHOPPING, HOLIDAY SHOPPING, SHOPPING ADVICE, TEXTILES, GREEN FABRICS
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Shopping for “green fashion” can challenge even an expert in textiles and clothing, as University of Maryland American studies
professor Jo Paoletti is discovering this holiday season. She’s accepted an unusual shopping mission for her recently-married
daughter: find a stylish, environmentally-friendly, dressy outfit suitable for holiday parties.
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"The Web or a dictionary helps shopping for 'green fashion," says UMD's Jo Paoletti
Newswise — Shopping for “green fashion” can challenge even an expert in textiles and clothing, as University of Maryland American
studies professor Jo Paoletti is discovering this holiday season. She’s accepted an unusual shopping mission for her recently-married
daughter: find a stylish, environmentally-friendly, dressy outfit suitable for holiday parties.
“I’ve started reading clothing tags the same way I read food labels,” says Paoletti, who has studied fashion for more than 25 years.
“Reading a garment label is not so simple anymore. You almost need to bring a dictionary or an Internet connection because there are
all sorts of new, unfamiliar names and fibers on the market designed to appeal to environmentally-conscious shoppers. Eventually, we’
ll have to learn about them the way we’ve learned about Trans Fats.”
Paoletti has offered to buy the new clothes because her daughter’s t-shirts, jeans and hoodies won’t cut it for upcoming holiday events.
She also accepted her daughter’s “green” requirement as an experiment in sustainable style.
“She composts her kitchen trash, uses a push mower and buys local produce,” Paoletti says. “Her like-minded husband is a newly-
minted government attorney. They had a pared-down wedding and as green a reception as we could manage. She's not about to head to
the mall to get a trendy ‘seasonal’ outfit.”
Part of the challenge is to find clothes made from renewable resources rather than petroleum-based synthetics, Paoletti says. Some
manufacturers are offering an array of new fibers made from things like corn, soybeans and bamboo, and marketing them as part of a
more sustainable lifestyle.
Paoletti’s daughter also requested recycled, reused or repurposed clothing and items that can have multiple uses. Also, the clothes had
to be comfortable and stylish.
“I’ve searched the Internet and catalogs, looked in thrift shops and even gone to sporting goods stores in search of bamboo,” Paoletti
says. “My daughter will be ready for her holiday parties, but it’s definitely not easy shopping green.”
Paoletti predicts this kind of shopping will become more common in the future as a result of climate change. Some of these new fabrics
will become more widespread, and older, more traditional fibers may regain some lost popularity.
Climate change concerns could also affect the frequency of buying new clothes and the size of wardrobes. We might also see fewer
fashion cycles. “In effect, that’s what happened this year,” Paoletti says. “With a warm fall, winter fashions didn’t sell at a brisk pace,
and retailers are trying to move them right now.”
To keep warm in the winter, some old trends also may regain popularity. For example, Paoletti says a hundred years ago, people
mainly added under-garments for warmth in winter. “Women wore the same dresses all year-round, but their underwear got warmer or
cooler depending on the seasons,” she adds. “This required a smaller wardrobe and simplified laundering. I’m not saying petticoats are
coming back, but climate change may force us to rethink how we dress.
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